Steering Column and Shift Linkage Tips

Tech Tips > 1964 - 1966 Tips > Steering Column and Shift Linkage Tips

First and most importantly before you start any diagnosis, it is important to remember that it is not factory original, or correct, for you to lift up on the shift lever to start the car. You should not have to touch the shift lever to start the car. This is a direct indication that something is wrong. Read further and the solution will be revealed.

The steering column should slide to the right freely once the car is placed into park. You should not have to lift up on the shift lever in order to move the steering column to the right, out of the drive position. The steering column can be adjusted both ways but the correct way is to have it slide freely without locking into the drive position without it being in any other gear. Only when it is shifted out of park is the steering column suppose to lock in place. In these two photos you see the slide mechanism engaged with the car in park and disengaged with he car in drive.

Neutral safety switch maladjustment is most commonly caused by a faulty lower steering column bushing. If the bushing disintegrates the shift tube will move out of position and cause the neutral safety switch to seem misaligned. Once that is repaired the correct adjustment or alignment usually finds its place once again. This can also be true with the shift lever.

The steering column DOES NOT need to be removed to replace the lower steering column bushing, upper sleeve, shift lever, neutral safety switch, turn signal switch, repairs or adjustments to the slide mechanism or most other steering column repairs. The steering column DOES need to be removed if you are replacing the steering column to firewall boot or if it is in some way damaged and cannot be repaired in the car.

About 25 percent of all Thunderbirds we see have a faulty steering coupler (rag joint) between the steering column and steering gear box. If the steering coupler is oil soaked, torn, loose at the rivets or has been poorly repaired in the past, replace it. We have in stock rebuilt steering couplers that have been repaired with the same strong rag joint and reriveted together exactly like factory. Replacement rag joints available at auto parts stores in kits are far inferior to the original in strength and durability and should not be used. They also use bolts to reassemble the coupler and not rivets like original.

As of today you cannot buy  new original (NOS) or reproduction shift linkage parts. For those of you who own a 1965-66 Thunderbird this can be a problem. You will need to hand repair your shift linkage if yours becomes a problem. Almost every '65-'66 Thunderbird we see has shift linkage wear or damage of some sort.

Upper steering shaft bearing and sleeve:

The upper steering shaft bearing and sleeve are located in the upper steering column collar which houses the turn signal switch and PRNDL (pronounced PRINDLE). The PRNDL is the thing that says P for park, R for reverse, N for neutral, D for drive and L for low. They call it a PRNDL. Anyway, the upper bearing sleeve can disintegrate and disappear causing excessive play in the steering wheel. You can notice this if your entire steering wheel will move freely up and down while the steering column stays stationary. This will also cause the right turn signal not to cancel when completing a turn because the steering wheel is no longer in the correct position to cancel the signal.

In this image, you see the old upper bearing and debris from the old sleeve around it that looks kind of like dirt. That is the remnants of the old sleeve. It has disintegrated and those crumbs are all thats left.

The sleeve surrounds the bearing and supports it in the collar as seen in this image. The upper bearing and sleeve support the steering shaft in the collar.

Lower steering column bushing, shift lever and neutral safety switch:

The other day while parking my Thunderbird I placed the car in park but noticed the shift lever would not stay (lock) in place and fell into reverse by itself. I also noticed that the car does not detent well, meaning you cannot really tell what gear it is in because the pointer doesn’t stay in position and it doesn’t point to the right gear, there seems to be too much play. Also, when I go to start the car I need to lift up on the shift lever while turning the key to get it to start. What’s the deal?

These problems are common problems on all 64-66 Thunderbirds and can be solved easily without removal of the steering column. They are usually caused by a combination of a bad shift lever, worn out or missing lower steering column bushing and worn out shift linkage between the steering column and transmission. 2 out of these 3 problems can be repaired easily and inexpensively. Problem #1 relates to all Thunderbirds 58-66 but the other two are unique to 64-66 Thunderbirds.

Problem #1: The shift lever wears out because of use. Over time the detent will saw a grove into the shift lever so it cannot lock into the detent. In this photo you will see the worn out shift lever with the groove and a new shift lever with no grove. Also you will see the detent in the second photo. Usually the detent will not wear out like the shift lever and, in most cases, doesnt need to be replaced. This problem is the #1direct cause of the car not locking into park. A bad lower steering column bushing is the #2 cause.

The shift lever is easy to replace with a roll pin punch and a hammer. The shift lever retaining roll pin can be punched out and the worn out shift lever can then be removed. Installing a new shift lever only requires you to install the shift lever and reinsert the roll pin. Make sure to punch the roll pin out from the bottom up while the car is in park. Hold the shift lever and hub firmly while you’re tapping the roll pin out to cushion the blows as best you can. Reinstall the roll pin from the bottom up. If the hole in the hub is worn out beyond its original size causing the shift lever to be loose you must replace the hub.

Problem #2: The lower steering column bushing is a little more difficult but still not too hard. Working under the top of the steering column, remove the shift tube to shift hub retaining screw (figure #1). Working under the dash near the bottom of the steering column, remove the neutral safety switch actuating lever (figure #2). Do not remove the neutral safety switch, just the lever. You can now slide the shift tube down (towards the steering gear box) about one inch. This will give you enough room to slide the lower steering column bushing over the tube and into the steering column when the time comes (figure #3). (The illustration shows the shift tube out farther then you will be able to move it. It will only move about 1 inch, not more). Working under the hood, remove the drivers side hood spring. Make sure to brace the hood or it will come crashing down onto your head. This will give you enough access to the lower part of the steering column where you will be installing the bushing. Cut the lower steering column bushing between the locking tab (figure #4). Make sure to cut it directly in the middle making both halves of the locking tab equal. Do not cut the bushing into two pieces, you’re only cutting one side. Working under the hood, clean the bottom of the shift tube where it has come out of the steering column the best you can. Try to clean up into the steering column as best you can. It is not the end of the world if you cannot get it spotless. Just get it free of debris. Grease the shift tube and the entire bushing with white lithium grease and slide the bushing onto the shaft (figure #5). Once bushing is on the shaft you can insert the bushing into the steering column by putting one side of the bushings locking tab into the locking notch on the steering column and slide the bushing around the tube until the entire bushing is started into the column. I continue pushing it in equally until it is all the way in evenly and locked (figure #6). Once the bushing is in place you can reverse your steps for reassembly by sliding the shift tube back up into is original position, reinstalling the hood spring, reinstalling the neutral safety switch actuating lever and the shift tube to shift hub screw. It’s about a one hour job. Adjustment of the neutral safety switch may be necessary by loosening the two retaining screws and moving the switch either way until properly adjusted (figure #7).

Problem #3: The shift linkage is, more often then not, a problem on 65-66 Thunderbirds and is much more difficult to repair. I am not giving removal or repair instruction on that here. However, removal from the car and welding and making your own bushings is usually involved. It is the bushings that disintegrate and fall out leaving a large hole for a small shaft causing excessive play. The shafts (which are part of the shift linkage) also get worn out and sometimes need repair as well. There are no new replacement parts for the shift linkage.

Ciao